2011 Rules

IF IT IS NOT SPECIFIED IN THE RULES BELOW THAN CALL FIRST BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT IT

Note any changes from last year are highlighted in blue.

Latest Revision Date is 1/15/2011

1-       Any year O.E.M. frame and body model of passenger car or station wagon except for the following:

2-       1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Lebaron’s.

3-       For 80’s and newer class, cars are allowed to do a coil to leaf spring conversion:

1. General motors’: any 1977 or newer.
2. Chrysler: any 1979 or newer is allowed.
3. Ford: any 1978 or newer is allowed.

4-       We reserve the right to and re-inspect cars at any time before, during or after the event, even after it has been flagged. You may be asked to cut areas of question open before, during and after the derby if needed.

WE ARE PRIVELIGED TO USE ALL OR OUR  FACILITIES! PLEASE TAKE EXTRA CARE IN STRIPPING YOUR CAR!

PREPARATION:

1-       All glass, plastic, and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottom of the doors, trunks. All outside hardware must be removed (door handles, mirrors, chrome, molding, screw, fiber glass, etc). Inner wagon panels may remain but all rear seats must be removed.

2-       No added weight to the car except the weld. No packing the frames, trunks, passenger doors, or under floor decking.

3-       Front seats must be securely mounted to the floor, and must have seat belts. All cars MUST have inner padding on driver’s door.

4-       All flammable materials inside the car must be removed except necessary safety padding and seat.

5-       No stadagoning is allowed. Contact head Official if you have any questions

6-       Skid plates are allowed, but must be separate oil pan/transmission plates. No full-length skid plates. No bolting or welding of skid plates to the frame or body.

7-       Your number must be at least 18 inches tall and must be painted on each side of your car.

8-       Roof signs are mandatory at HR4th show.  Roof number at least 18 inches tall securely fastened to the roof with your number on each side. It is to be placed as far back on the roof towards the trunk as possible. Ideal location is over the rear seat.

9-       VIN number tags must remain attached and accessible on the car for inspection for 80’s and newer class cars.

10-   ALL CARS MUST BE COMPLETE BEFORE BEING INSPECTED. ONCE INSPECTED YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO TAKE YOUR CAR BACK TO THE PITS TO WORK ON THEM.

Fuel Pumps:

1-       Externally mounted electric fuel pumps are allowed. ON/OFF off switch must be located on the dash board so that they are easily accessible to officials. Switches must be painted in a florescent type paint making them stand out from other switches. Safety to be determined by officials on racing fuel cells.

Tires:

1-    You may use any tire and you may tube, screw, glue, tire inside of tire, flappers, and use recaps) only Air must be used to inflate your tire.

2-       You may weld valve stem protectors.

Brakes:

1-       All cars must exhibit the ability to stop before entering the arena. If a car loses its braking ability it will be subject to disqualification.

Engines and DP protectors

In an effort to keep this simple and fair:

1.  Distributor protectors may only be bolted to the motor
2. If your distributor is in the rear of the car, the protector may be a max of 12” wide and no farther than 3” from the distributor cap and no more than ¼” thick
3. If you have a front distributor, the rear support plate may only be 12” wide but may not be more than 1 inch from the block and no higher than the valve covers and no more than ¼” thick.
4. DP must be a minimum of 5 inches from the dash bar, window bar or any added metal.
5. Engine cradle must be mounted to the frame cradle only. No other part of the cradle or DP may be mounted to the frame.
6. Pulley protector may not be more than 2“ from the front of the pulley and no more than ¼” thick
7. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS SEND US A PICTURE FOR APPROVAL

1. Two additional motor ties downs may be used but must attach to the block or heads and not the engine cradle or DP protector. No more than ONE fastener on each side of the motor may be used. If straps are used they may only be welded, within reason, to 3 inches per side on the frame. That section that is welded to the frame may not be any thicker than ¼ inch thick and 2” wide, and MAY NOT extend in front or the water pump or behind the engine block any more than 4 inches. One chain from the rear of the motor heads/manifold to the dash bar may be used to keep the motor from coming forward.
2. Any engine and transmission combination may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 4 inches of the original motor. Must be mounted securely. You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine within reason. However it must be covered to prevent a fire hazard
3. You may cut a hole to accommodate the distributor. However it must be covered to prevent a fire hazard if opening is larger than 8” x 8”. Distributor protectors are allowed see above.
4. Holes left in the firewall more than 8” by 8” from removing the dash and heater must be covered to prevent fire hazards.
5. No holes will be allowed in the floor of the car except to accommodate the transmission shifter, fuel and transmission lines and wiring. Shifters may be tack welded or bolted. Patching holes is for safety not reinforcement, if patching rust holes you may use sheet metal only not to exceed 2 inches past rusted area.
6. Motor mounts may be welded; when making motor mounts to raise shift or use different motors in different cars, mounts cannot exceed original footprint of motor mount. Transmission and motors may be chained or strapped with no reinforcing of the engine frame cradle. No more than ONE fastener on each side of the motor may be used. If straps are used they may only be welded, within reason, to 3 inches per side on the frame. That section that is welded to the frame may not be any thicker than ¼ inch thick and 2” wide, and MAY NOT extend in front or the water pump or behind the engine block any more than 4 inches. One chain from the rear of the motor heads/manifold to the dash bar may be used to keep the motor from coming forward.
7. You may tilt your rear end by shortening or lengthening rear end control arms; however, they must remain functional. Do not reinforce more than one inch past cut or extension area, must use metal of same thickness or less, no other welding other than the cut seam is allowed. Cuts must be made in the middle of the arms, and no metal added to the inside or ends of the control arms.

Rear ends:

1. 1.       Any 5 lug rear end may be used.

FOR USE BELOW:

1-      Note due to the price of metal we will use a “within reason” clause; however if you push it we will make you cut it!

2-      Only 3/8” round hot, cold or rebar, or 1” x 3/16” flat strap may be used for seam welding.

3-      Chain must be no larger than 3/8” when chaining.

4-       #9 wires may be used in place of chain only and only 4 strands may be twisted together.

Securing:

1-       Only bolts no bigger than 3/8” X 2” may be used around any hood cut out openings. Must be spaced 12” apart and no more than 3 inches from the cut out opening. NO zip screws can be used anymore.

2-       Only one of the following (welding or bolting) must be used to secure your hood and trunk. The tailgate of a station wagon will be treated as a trunk. #9 wire may only be used in place of chain were chaining is allowed.

 Doors and windows:

1-       Doors may be fully welded. All EXTERIOR door seams may be welded OR you may chain or use #9 wires, at least twice per seem. If chaining or wiring, none may go through the frame.

2-       A protective bar may be placed inside or outside on the driver’s and/or passenger’s front door. It cannot extend more than 6” past the driver’s door seam on either side.

3-       No window openings may be snaked through quarter panels to the roof with chain, cable or wire.

4-       One or two bars running from the roof down to the cowl or front dashboard bar is mandatory! One or two bars from the rear speaker deck area to the roof is optional, No more than two bars may be used in either location and bars can not exceed 2 inches in diameter and be welded NO MORE THAN 3 INCHES BEYOND THE LIP OF THE GLASS ONTO THE TRUNK. AND THE MOUNTING PLATE MAY ONLY BE 4” BY 4” IF MOUNTED IN THIS AREA. On four door cars without posts you may add a chain or a bar from the top center of the doors to the roof.

5-       DOOR seams ONLY may be pinched and welded were the windows come up through.

6-       You may use a screen or netting over drivers side front window and drivers door only.

Interior bars:

1-       All interior bars must be a minimum of 2” outside diameter or a have minimum of a 6 x6 1/2” end plates. End plates are MANDATORY on all bars and must be welded in place no bolting allowed.

2-       Pipes cannot be fence, galvanized, exhaust style of pipe/tubing.

3-       A bar behind the seat is mandatory. It must be located no more than 6” from the final resting position of your seat.

4-       A minimum of one upright post or roll loop, halo MUST be used if a 4 door non post car and highly recommended on all cars. It must be ATTACHED to the floor (not frame) roof and seat bar. Located behind the driver’s seat. It may be welded or bolted to the floor. This is for safety so please make sure it is welded adequately or bolted.

5-       IF YOU WISH TO RUN A TUBE FROM EACH CORNER OF YOUR CAGE TO THE FLOOR PAN YOU MAY. THEY MUST BE VERTICLE AND WELDED ONLY TO THE FLOOR PAN AND MAY NOT PENETRATE IT TO THE FRAME OR MAY NOT BE ATTACHED TO ANY FRAME MOUNTING POINT OR SUBFRAME MOUNTING POINT.

6-       An optional bar may be put in the front where the dashboard was located, in between the front door posts.

7-       You may weld a connecting bar on the inside of the driver’s and passenger door only from front bar to the rear bar creating in essence a box.

8-       All bars and posts in the proximity of the head must be padded.

9-      Overall safety will be determined by the official’s at time of inspection.

Welding:

1-       Cars with 2 piece fenders may weld ½ of the exterior seam (call before welding).

2-       No inner seam welding or alterations to strengthen the frame or uni-body is allowed other than what is specified.

1. Exception is the inner rear panels of a wagon. They may be secured by FOUR 4” welds per panel seam. And a min of a 15” inspection hole must be made.
2.  You may weld the floor pan seam under the gas and brake pedal only for safety, no filler may be used. 

3-       All exterior hood and trunk seams may be fully welded. A seam is defined as two original exterior body to body lines on the doors hood and trunk and the front dashboard side of the hood only. No other seams or created seams may be welded other than on rule Door Window rule #6.

1. A seam runs from one corner to another, and is not continuous.
2. The tailgate of a station wagon will be treated as a trunk.

4-       In addition to the weld, two bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter and two washer’s not to exceed 3” in diameter may be placed thru the trunk lid and floor. Bolts may go through the frame or uni-body and may replace only 1 body mount and bushing per frame rail in the trunk floor pan area or it may be welded to the side of the frame. If welding the body mount may NOT be removed. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used.

5-       No painting or undercoating may be used underneath the car.

Bolting:

1-       Instead of welding your hood and trunk you may use 8 bolts to secure the hood and 8 bolts to secure the trunk. (using two 8 inch long by Two inch angle back to back over a seam with Two bolts acceptable)

2-       None of these bolts may go thru, around, or touch the frame or uni-body.

3-       Bolts may not exceed 1” inch in diameter or 8 inch’s in length.

4-       Washers may not exceed 3 inches in diameter.

5-       In addition to the eight 8” bolts, two bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter and two washer’s not to exceed 3” in diameter may be placed thru the trunk lid and floor. Bolts may go thru the frame or uni-body and may replace only 1 body mount and bushing per frame rail in the trunk floor pan area. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used. If welding the body mount may NOT be removed. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used.

EXAMPLE: You may weld the hood and bolt the trunk or visa versa, but not both on the same section.

Chains or #9 wire:

1-       3/8” inch chain is allowed to secure front and rear bumpers to the frame. Only two chains may be used. It may loop thru the hood or trunk. Excessive chaining (more than 2 wraps) will not be allowed.

2-       No chain may be welded at any point to the frame or body.

3-       You may weld a 3” washer to the hood to run the chain thru.

4-       You may use on the bumpers, in place of chain up to ¾ inch rolled steel or 2” x 3/16” wide flat strap welded from the upper core support area of the hood to the chrome of the bumper. No more than 2 of these may be used per bumper. It may only be welded up to 6” inches on the body and on the chrome. If bolting hood or trunk this cannot then be welded to the seam.

Bumpers:

The intention of this rule is to allow you to mount the bumper in such a way that it will not fall off. Upon inspection if it is determined that you have exceeded the intention of the rule you will be disqualified.

1-       Stock O.E.M. bumpers of passenger cars must be used.

2-       Bumpers may be cut so they do not smash into the tires during the event. Chrome may be welded to the inner bumper box to keep it from separating. 

3-       Bumpers may be flipped.

4-       Bumpers may be welded to the brackets and the frame only.

5-       Only One bumper bracket per frame rail may be welded to the frame, and can be welded and/or bolted no more than 10 inches from the front of the frame.

6-       If swapping bumper and brackets:

1. You may only use the mounting hardware that was on the car originally or one style of car bracket hardware and a car bumper. All other hardware must be removed. (ex. Chrysler bumper with GM shock brackets on a Ford)
2. Shock tube will be considered the bracket if disassembled from the mounting hardware. If this is done then rule #5 applies.
3. Mounting brackets may not be attached to the Cordoba type sub or k-frame in any way.
4. If using an Aluminum beam bumper you may weld your front straps around and to the bottom of the bumper bracket

7-       Compression bumper shock tubes may be compressed and welded.

8-       No material may be added other than the weld.

9-       No chrome may be welded to the body on compression bumpers whether it is using the mounting hardware or not. Non-compression bumpers may weld ORIGINAL bumpers to the body.

10-   No welding of any kind other than what is specified and straps (rule #4 chains or #9 wires) is allowed on the bumper.

Frame:

1-       THERE IS NO WELDING OF OR TO THE FRAME or UNI-BODY ALLOWED OTHER THAN what is specified in the Bumpers section #5 and Radiator Rule #4 and Engines Rule #5.

2-       If you cut the frame for pre-bending purposed, you may not weld the cut back together.

3-       All body mounts (rubber biscuit and cone) and “Pucks” must be in place. You may not remove bolts and place washers on both sides.

4-       No Buffing, grinding or packing of frames

5-       Humps may be chained with one wrap, but may not be welded to frame.

6-       No Chrysler sub-frame chaining other than the rear humps and on the K frame front frame in front of the motor using only 2 wraps around the FRAME only  

7-       No Imperial sub frame swaps allowed.

8-       1980 and newer model cars with coil spring rear ends may plate the rear frame humps using one plate per rail that is 7” X 4” X 1/4” thick max.  Cars that have leaf springs or have been converted to leaf springs MAY NOT plate the humps.

9-        

80’s Fords YOU MAY PITCH, TILT, TIP THE FORDS IN THE FOLLOWING WAY

You can cut flaps on front outside of the frame to pitch the frame, but pitch can be no more than ½ in. and no other metal or gussets can be added. Nothing is to be welded on the side of the spring bucket behind the ball joint. You may have a 5 inch long piece of angle welded to frame to set the cross member on if you like. Do not reweld any of the crush box seams
The only welds on the entire frame are :

1.      A arms forward topside only    

2.      Flaps on the front frame for the pitch

3.      Bumpers to frame

4.      The piece of angle for the cross member.  Any other welds on frame will cause car to be disqualified!

5.      YOU MAY NOT REWELD ALL OF THE CRUSH BOX SEAMS… PERIOD

6.  You may not swap out aluminum engine cradles.

7.  upper control arms and spindles may be swapped.

YOU MAY “COLD” PITCH THE FORDS AS WELL.

Radiators & Radiator supports:

1-       Only OEM style passenger car radiators may be used. Aluminum racing of the same style may also be used. Radiator hose loops may also be used.

2-       Radiators FIN area only may be sleeved in a light expanded metal. I t may not be fastened to any part of the car.

3-       Radiators must stay close to stock position in front of the motor. (No added water capacity).

4-       Engine coolants are allowed.

5-       Upper Radiator supports may be welded to the hood using a 6-inch weld only or may be bolted with two bolts with 3” washers. This may be done whether you use the eight-bolt rule or weld your hood. No more than 2 bolts may go thru the upper core support. And none if you weld it.

6-       Lower Radiator support body mount bushings may be removed and replaced with a max. 1” bolt diameter. Bolt may go up through the upper core support or hood to be used in #3 above.

7-       If when the body mount is located in front of the core support and you use the bolt there, a nut may be welded to the top of the frame only, ½” inch behind the core support. This nut only will be used to screw a bolt into to continue up thru the upper support. If an “S” Body Chrysler (call if you need to know what this is) you may drill a hole completely thru the frame to run the all thread thru as stated above, must no more than 1” behind core support.

8-       Radiator support may not be welded to the frame, bumper, bumper brackets or anything else.

Transmission coolers:

1-       Transmission coolers will be allowed.

2-       Proper hydraulic, Metal or steel braided line must be used.

3-       Condenser must be enclosed or covered.

4-       Overall safety will be determined by the official’s at time of inspection.

Gas Tanks:

1-       Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.

2-       You must have your gas tank securely mounted inside the car with a minimum of two fasteners, behind the driver’s seat and covered unless a fuel cell or metal tank. Seat belts or “pull” type straps may not be used.

3-       A maximum size of 6.5 gallons can be used.

4-       A marine type tank or fuel cell must be used. NO plastic gas cans will be allowed unless they are mounted within a four sided metal tank protector. (call for clarification)

5-       GAS TANK PROTECTION BARS MUST NOT BE ATTACHED TO THE BODY IN ANY WAY, AND MAY BE ONLY SLIGHTLY LARGER THAN THE GAS TANK ITSELF.

6-       Fuel lines must run inside car. Original gas line inside frame cannot be used.

7-       Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Battery:

1-       Only one battery of any type may be in the car.

2-       It must be securely mounted inside the car in front of the seat and covered unless a gel cell.

3-       Battery Box can not be made out of plastic; Seat belts or “pull” type straps may not be used.

4-       Battery Box may not roll over or be bolted thru the frame.

5-       Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Air Cleaners:

1-       You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor all times during the event.

2-       No starting fluid will be allowed.

3-       There must be a minimum of 40 square inch opening cut around the air cleaner in case of a fire.

4-      Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Cut outs:

1-       Cut outs over the wheel wells are legal.

2-       Cutouts may be folded If cutouts are folded you may be asked to cut an inspection hole in them.

3-       Only three 3/8” bolts with 1” fender washers, directly over the fender’s, may be used.

4-       No welding of the cutouts is allowed.

5-       You must have TWO holes cut in the trunk lid for inspection. Minimum of 8” in diameter unless tail light hole are big enough.

6-       If your hood is welded must have a minimum of a 30” by 30” hole cut in the hood for inspection. If bolted, hood must be off of car during inspection. Unless the 30 by 30 cutout exists.

7-       If inspection holes & fire holes are determined to be too small you will be asked to cut them larger.

8-       If center cut out is bent forward to cover the radiator it may not be fastened to the bumper.

Trailer Hitches:

1-       Trailer hitches and framework after Market or not must be removed.

Suspension:

1-       No pulling shocks and putting pipes in their place

2-       You may use tires, spring swapping or spacers , or WELDING ON EACH SIDE OF THE UPPER A-ARM WITH NO MORE THAN A 2 INCH BY 1 INCH WELD PER SIDE TO HOLD THE A-ARM TO THE FRAME.

3-       may be used to raise the cars suspension.

4-       No adding reinforcements to the suspension.

5-       No putting leaf springs on top of the axle.

6-       You may weld coil springs to the frame or axle so they do not fall out (no filler may be used).

7-       You may not clamp the shocks. No solid suspension.

8-       You are allowed 9 leaf’s maximum. All Leafs after the main must be a minimum of 3” shorter than the one above it on each end.  You may not put anything on top of the main leaf, except factory OEM overload spring. In which case if using a 7 leaf spring pack you may not use an overload spring. Any clamps used to secure this spring will be considered one of the clamps in rule #8

9-       You may use only 3 clamps total per leaf spring pack, no welding. Springs must be of passenger car origin. Clamps may be no wider than 3” using only one set of bolts per clamp.

10-   Original leaf spring cars must be mounted in original mounting position. 

11-   Coil spring to leaf spring conversions are allowed in all 80’s and newer cars.Attachment point on the frame can be no more than three inches.(ie, size of a shackle)

12-   On 1978 and older Ford and Mercury cars, ball joints, upper control arms and tie rods may be strengthened.

Rules for Previously Run Cars

The following rules apply to previously run derby cars only.  The intention of these rules is to help you make your pre-run car competitive with fresh cars.  The idea is to repair damaged areas only and return the car to as close to “stock” condition as possible.  This is not an opportunity to plate or reinforce your car!   If we feel that you have pushed the limits of these guidelines, you will not be able to compete!  Inspection officials will use discretion and all decisions will be final.  Call and ask before you fix something that is not outlined in this section.  Absolutely NO ADDED METAL other than what is specified below!

1.  GENERAL.  You may make any change or modification that complies with the full set of general rules.       (Add all-thread, strap, and bolts; weld doors, etc…if the car was previously run somewhere that does not allow these things.)  There are certain rules and items that are MANDATORY for this show, so make sure you read the rules completely.  Call if you have questions.  Keep in mind that you may have to cut welds, bolts and/or make other modifications to be in compliance with the rules.

2.  SAFTEY.  You may patch any hole in the doors or floor of the car for SAFETY ONLY.  You must use sheet metal only, and your patch may only be 2” larger than the hole you are patching.  Safety will be determined by inspection official at the time of inspection.

3.  FRAME REPAIRS.  Pre-run cars are allowed to repair damaged areas of the frame on the front and rear of the car (4 total repairs on the car max!).  You may use one patch that is 6” x 4” x 1/8” thick MAX plate for each repair.  The patch may only be placed on the part of the frame that is damaged.  There must be a clear sign of damage from a previous derby. (Tear, crack, or extreme bend).  This will be reviewed by the official at the time of inspection.  The patch must be placed FLAT on the top, bottom, inside or outside rail.  It MAY NOT be welded and folded over from one side to the other.  Patch may NOT be welded to any other patch or ANY other part of the car.  (Body, bumper, bumper bracket, core support, inner fender, all thread, etc…)  Patch may be welded only!  NO BOLTS!  No other frame welding will be allowed!  All other repairs made to the frame will be cut and/or removed.

If you have other pre-run questions, call first before you fix it!